How to choose a pottery wheel

If you decide to take up pottery, a novice potter will face the challenge of choosing a potter’s wheel. And this task is not so simple: there is a mass of designs of a circle and their cost, starting from, approximately, 20 thousand rubles, goes for 200 thousand.
By the way, with the last and worth starting – it is not necessary for a beginner to look at expensive circles. Shimpo RK-3E, which costs almost 120 thousand, is quite good, and it is great to work on it. But such expenses for a beginner potter seem absolutely unreasonable. Although, if you disagree, it remains to envy you)).

So, what does a newcomer to the potter’s wheel want? In a nutshell, the following characteristics:

• power, or rather torque, which will allow you to center a kilo of up to 3 clays, well, maybe up to 5, if you have a good reserve. The centering is the most physically demanding operation for a lap. For rough orientation: 300 grams of clay – about a mug on 300 ml, and 3 kg of clay – a jug on 3 liters, that is quite a decent size. Thus, if less than 3 kg, you will soon be little, and if more than 5, it is unlikely to be needed.
• RPMs, which should be adjustable from 0 to 250-300 rpm.
• cleaning convenience. This is an important factor, as you will have to clean the lap every time after work.
• electrical safety. This point is not worth the first one because it is not rated.
• Protection must be provided because water and electricity are very much in love with each other. And it’s best if the design of the lap has a RCD (Safety Shutdown Device), which will prevent you from getting electrocution in the event of a current leak.

And now for the design features of the pottery wheels

Perhaps the most important detail of a pottery wheel is the drive. Well, yes, there are circles with foot drive and with electric (manual drive is, in general, exotic exotic). But, since the leg drive is a thing that occurs infrequently, then we will talk only about electric pottery wheels. And the drive for them is, of course, the electric motor.

So, as a rule, in pottery circles usually use collector motors, asynchronous and, recently, more and more often, collectorless, on neodymium magnets.

Collector motors are in the ranges of almost all manufacturers of pottery circles. Their main advantage is their low cost. I think that’s it. No, they are perfectly suitable for use in pottery circles and you should not be afraid, there is in the characteristics of the circle you will read: “collector motor”. That’s normal. They have 2 main drawbacks; the need for a reduction belt drive or gearbox and the presence of a brush collector. Belt transmission implies the need for periodic belt replacement. And brush collector – replacement of brushes and noise, which requires additional noise insulation. They also have a special feature to pay attention to: when using the collector motor, the correct speed control methods must be used, otherwise, at low speeds, the washer can be stopped with a finger. Pay attention to this when choosing a circle with a collector motor.

Asynchronous motors are good. But it’s expensive. Good, because it’s probably an industrial engine, with all its advantages. And expensive, because it is controlled by a frequency regulator, which itself costs about 10 thousand rubles. Yes, also at low revs, the asynchronous motor requires forced cooling, which also does not cheapen the pottery wheel. For today, due to the specifics, asynchronous devices are less and less common.

Finally, the most modern solution is the collectorless motors on neodymium magnets (BLDC). These are the ones that are put on electric bikes, gyro scooters and even on Tesla. Compared to the previous two types of motors, they are just perfect (shh-s-s, well, almost). They are brushless, quiet, controlled by inexpensive controllers, mounted directly on the axis of the washer and very reliable. In addition, they are getting cheaper every year. All other things being equal – choose a collectorless engine. That’s what Iskona pottery circles use.
An important enough characteristic for a potter’s wheel is its weight. And it’s a stick at two ends: the heavy lap is, of course, hard to move, on the other hand, the heavy lap stands securely on the floor and is not afraid of working with large products – it will not “sausage”. For understanding, you can apply the formula: the weight of the circle should be at least 3 times the weight of the clay to be processed. And this is the minimum! Otherwise, the body of the circle can begin to rotate itself. There is really a way out – the circle can be fixed to the floor, if the workshop premises allow it. But if the manufacturer declares the possibility of working with the weights of clay in a few tens of kilograms, and the circle weighs 20-30 kilograms, it looks somewhat suspicious.

The plan washer or otherwise circled: diameter 220-250mm, material – aluminum or stainless steel. A larger diameter is good, of course, but it’s usually more expensive. It’s the same with stainless steel.

How to choose a radio-controlled car?

First, look at four key points:

• Type of chassis;
• Class;
• Scale;
• Manufacturer.

All other details can be sorted out later, when the list of suitable options is reduced from hundreds of cars to several specific models. And we are starting to narrow the search for the perfect radio-controlled car with …

Chassis

The chassis is the basis of the model, it depends on it how the car will move and what conditions it is designed for. The classification of cars by chassis looks like this:

Drift. Flat flat platform, lightweight and durable. The center of gravity is often shifted anteriorly (for example, moving the engine there), so that it is easier to send the car into a skid;

Road models. They look like drifters with a low landing and flat geometry, but the suspension is stiffer and the weight is evenly distributed;

SUVs. Classical “basin” with high clearance, best rc crawlers have a rigid and reliable design.

The chassis sets the general properties of the model, but to clarify the task of choosing the right car, look at the…

Class

Cars on the radio control copy real cars – naturally, the choice of classes for models is as impressive as for full-sized ones:

Drift. Distinguished by hard rubber and the fact that they more or less accurately copy real cars (unlike the next class, where conventions and assumptions are a common thing);

Road cars. High-speed models (up to 100 km / h or more) for roads with good coverage. Divided into two sub-classes:

Formula. Open wheels, aerodynamic body, rubber without tread – classic cars;

Touring. A copy of a car with a traditional body on a stiffer suspension and with a low-profile rubber.

Buggy. Like the full-size prototype, they have a very narrow scope: specially prepared off-road tracks. Take it if you plan to participate in specific competitions… or just if you like buggies;

Monster truck. Cool jump, good chase, impressive look. The same thing as in the case of buggy: if you like bigfoot, you have to take it;

Truggy. Hybrid of buggy and monster truck: pickup truck with an extended chassis and huge wheels. It looks stylish, but has problems of both classes – it races well only on prepared tracks;

Trophy. Exact – or practically accurate – copy of jeeps or pickups designed for rugged terrain. Usually packaged with a cool body kit: bumper guard, chandelier, snorkel and other trophy bells and whistles;

Crawlers. Trophy that is elevated to the absolute: VERY long suspension travel, VERY high clearance and readiness for VERY serious trials;

Short course truck. Off-road pickups for competitions, they jump perfectly and look spectacular.

The classes are really different, so there are usually no problems with the choice. You look at one of them and you understand: this one’s mine! It remains to determine the size.

Scale

In fact, the scale of the radio-controlled car is rather arbitrary. All models are different, some of them do not have real prototypes at all, so 1:10 is 1:10 from the abstract “average car”. 

Categories:

• 1: 5. The largest models: from 700 mm in length, from 10 kilograms in weight. A full-fledged gasoline engine or a powerful electric motor is put into such cars, and driving such a baby is a big pleasure;
• 1: 8. Standard for SUVs, 450-600 mm in length, average weight is 3.5-5 kg. In this category there are radio-controlled cars with electric motors and internal combustion engines, although there are still fewer models of second type;
• 1:10. The most common scale, it is in it that the majority of road cars, buggies, truggies, monsters, trophies, crawlers are produced. Dimensions are close to 1:8 (400-600 mm and 2.5-4.5 kg), models still feel great outdoors, but they are not so bulky. If in doubt about the choice of sizes, take 1:10;
• 1:18. Indoor models: 250-300 mm, 350-550 grams. No ICE in this size class, only electric motors. If you choose a budget car, then most likely you will find it only in a scale of 1:18;
• 1:24. These babies are 165 mm long and weigh about 160 grams. Very demanding, but easy to carry and store. Managed no worse than larger models.

Have you decided on the scale? Let’s pass onto the last point before choosing a specific model.

The brand

There are two good options: either TRAXXAS, which are incredibly good, or HPI Racing, which are insanely good. Both companies produce excellent RC models in all genres, both give excellent quality, both are proud of their reputation.

In general, feel free to take any model from these two brands. And in no case do not take some Chinese no-name or strange fakes in obscure stores. Believe me, it’s not worth it at all.

How to choose a Pool Paint?

An additional stage of work is the finishing of the bowl. To do this, you can choose several materials, but the most common of them is paint. How to use it and what are the advantages of this choice, we will consider below.

Features

If a few years ago owners of pools were only available for finishing tiles, now most people decide to buy paint. This is due to a number of advantages that this type of material has:

• paint is much cheaper than tiles, even the most expensive;
• easy to apply: tiles should be installed by someone who knows how to apply them, and even a child will help to paint them;
• the application will go much faster than laying tiles;
• modern quality solutions contain substances that fight fungus, mildew and lime;
• paints can be used for both metal and concrete pools;
• durability: if applied correctly, the paint will last for many years without renewal.

There are practically no disadvantages of this type of material. A certain disadvantage can be considered that it is necessary to make a thorough preparation before painting. In addition, some people think that the paint looks cheaper compared to fine tiles.

Types

Not every paint sold in construction stores can be used to paint the tank bowl. It is necessary to choose special formulations designed specifically for pools. There are several such varieties.
Polyurethane .

This paint can be applied to concrete, metal, and various types of stone. Polyurethane version is absolutely safe, does not emit any harmful chemicals, work can be carried out both indoors and outdoors. It is best to use two-component paint, which will need to be mixed with the solvent. Such coloring will give a beautiful glossy shine.

However, it must be remembered that polyurethane dyes will give off the slightest roughness, so the surface must be perfectly flat. You can fill the tank with liquid already in 12 days.

Chloro Rubber

This type of paint is very highly valued by professionals, and many recommend to choose it. The chlorine rubber variants are most suitable for metal and concrete. They are perfectly applied, do not let in moisture, very wear-resistant – coloring will be enough for many years. Besides, such hydropainting prevents formation of stains and mould. And also chloro rubber dyes can be used even in salt water.

The minus will be evaporation, so the coloring work should be carried out with gloves and a respirator, and if the room, you should provide good ventilation.

Epoxy

The epoxy pool paint contain resin and hardener. Such dyes can be applied to a variety of materials. The paint is not erased, the coating turns out to be durable and cast a glossy shine.

The service life of the coating is at least 20 years, but it is important to observe the technology of coloring. Before applying the paint, the surface should be primed and wait for about 8 hours. Otherwise, the paint may bubble up and start flaking.

Acrylic

Acrylic paints are used in a wide variety of construction and creative spheres, so it is no wonder that they were used for painting pools. They can be applied to concrete, ceramics, metal and cement, and painting can be done both at normal and at minus temperatures. The paint does not change the acidity of water, it is used even for tanks in which fish live. It is safe, does not emit harmful compounds. At the same time, acrylic badly withstands shocks, and is afraid of aggressive cleaning.

Hydrostone

Hydrostone, or polyvinyl chloride paint, is one of the best options for painting the pool inside. It is very economical – it will take a maximum of 2 coats for the tank to look good. When combined with a surface, the paint creates a coating that prevents mold and microbes from developing. Thanks to this, the tank lasts much longer.

The paint does not emit an unpleasant smell, it is fireproof and resistant to salts, various chemicals and temperature changes. However, it is important not to forget that such paint requires careful work with solvent.

Tips for your choice

When choosing the paint for an outdoor pool, you need to be fully confident in its quality and that it is suitable for the material from which the tank is made. Be sure to look at the expiration date, as spoiled dyes can start to bubble, peel off, they will not last half the promised period. In addition, it will not be superfluous to ask for a quality certificate.

If we are talking about concrete pools, hydrostone will be an optimal choice. Such paint will need little, it is applied in 1-2 coats and dries quickly.